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吃喝史上的意外巧合
http://eat.csonline.com.cn  2008年01月09日10时24分   星辰美食网

 

  瓦特看见水壶嘭嘭作响,发明了蒸汽机,这算是灵机一动;中国古代的炼丹师在炼丹的过程中,发明了火药,这算是机缘巧合;汉朝淮南王刘安在炼丹的过程中,以黄豆汁培育丹苗,豆汁偶与石膏相遇,成为了豆腐,这算是无心插柳;清朝进京赶考的秀才王致和,卖豆腐为生,卖不了的豆腐,已经发毛了,却成就了另一种美味:臭豆腐,这算是意外之食。据说,酒的发明,也是源于醋的变形;而前些年大红大紫的水煮鱼,也源自四川的某处农家的灶台。

 

  许多餐厅经营者都会定期去乡下“采菜”,颇像古代的官员去民间“采风”。某家餐厅老板曾经和记者说过一个故事:他们去四川乡下,遇到一个美食高手,他们在喝醉了之后,用萝卜干做了一道水煮鱼,味道奇绝。后来这道菜成为了这家餐厅的招牌菜。这个过程,颇像李白“斗酒诗百篇”的架势。或许正因为“意外”,美食无形间多了很多隐喻的趣味。

 

  人们都听说过过桥米线的来历,就是心疼丈夫的妻子灵机一动想出来的菜肴。看着心爱的人吃得大汗淋漓,微微一笑,这就是外温内火的爱情。我觉得所有的灵机一动的美食,都是用心的美味。

 

  臭鳜鱼 “变质”鱼变出奇异美味

 

  掌故:二百多年前,沿江贵池一带,鱼贩用木桶将鳜鱼装运到歙县,为了防止日久变质,贩子给鱼抹上一层食盐,谁知抵达歙县,鳜鱼已经发出怪味,他们舍不得扔掉,洗净后自己烧着吃,竟是无比的美味,于是,大家都来仿照烧制臭鳜鱼吃。

 

  冰烧三层肉 烧糊肉烧出冰火新天

 

  掌故:这道菜是利苑酒家的招牌菜,据说源于厨师的失误,一次厨师在做烧烤的时候,和同伴聊天,一时忘记了锅里的肉,不小心糊了,于是他用冰块冷却,错上加错,死马当活马医,成就了这道举世无双的冰烧三层肉。

 

  银丝凉瓜 乱抓抓出招牌素菜

  掌故:很多菜品都是由于传说和杜撰,出现了美好的故事,但是这道菜实在是一个“当代版”的巧合。那家小馆的店主小那本是厨师出身,一次他去澳门街边的大牌档吃饭。那家排档厨师做素菜只是随便一抓,抓到什么算什么,给小那抓出来炒的是金针菇和苦瓜。小那觉得非常好吃,因为他从没有见过有谁这样搭配。于是他经过一番调试,这道银丝凉瓜就成为那家小馆的招牌素菜。

  金针菇炒青笋丝 寡淡菜因爱添滋味

  掌故:这并非是一道偶然的菜,而是一道颇用心的菜,因为这道菜背后是爱情。古稻田是一家胡同里的小馆,店主的女朋友平时最喜欢吃的两种食物是金针菇和青笋丝。在开店之前,店主经常在家给女朋友做这两道菜,后来他尝试着把金针菇和青笋丝放在一起炒。两种寡淡之物,放在一起炒,能吃,但是不够好吃,于是他琢磨着用新鲜的方法做出这道菜。因为女朋友爱吃,所以把这道菜写进了古稻田的菜牌。

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