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唐代饮食中的野菜

http://eat.csonline.com.cn 2007年12月24日17时19分星辰美食网

　　唐代的园圃种植业已见发达，人们食用的蔬菜主要来自园圃的供应。然而，野菜的采食仍是当时饮食生活的重要内容。人们一来利用野菜充饥，二来也为自己的食物增添新爽的口味。

　　唐人最常采食的野菜包括莼、蕨、薇、荠、蓼、苍耳、马齿苋等品种。

　　莼菜，又作菜，亦名水葵，属水生睡莲科植物，其叶片浮于水面，嫩茎和叶背有胶状透明物质，我国长江以南多野生，春夏采其嫩叶可作蔬菜食用。唐时，江浙一带的莼菜最为知名，其水生量之多，放舟可采。贺知章《答朝士》诗云：“镜湖莼菜乱如丝，乡曲近来佳此味。”钱起《送外甥范勉赴任常州长史兼觐省》诗云：“桔花低客舍，莼菜绕归舟。”皮日休《西塞山泊渔家》诗云：“雨来莼菜流船滑。”均反映了莼菜茂盛生长的可喜情景。莼菜滑柔可口，江南人家视其为优质蔬菜，佐饭必备其物。杜甫《回》诗有云：“强饭莼添滑”；白居易《想东游五十韵》亦云：“莼丝滑且柔”。将莼菜烹制成羹，便成为最佳菜肴，已流传了许多年。刘禹锡《历阳书事七十韵》：“一钟菰葑米，千里水葵羹”，张志和《渔歌子》：“松江蟹舍主人欢，菰饭莼羹亦共餐”，储光羲《采菱词》：“饭稻以终日，羹莼将永年”，都是唐人美餐莼羹的现实写照。

　　蕨属蕨类植物，凤尾蕨科，多年生草本，南北荒山中均有生长。其幼叶可食，称蕨菜。春夏之际，唐人常入山岗中采集。李郢《春日题山家》有云：“偶与樵人熟，春残日日来。依岗寻紫蕨，挽树得青梅。”钱起《过孙员外蓝田山居》亦云：“对酒溪霞晚，家人采蕨还。”尤其是春荒时期，新生的蕨菜作为天然食物，往往可以帮助人们度过艰难岁月，所以郑谷有“山蕨止春饥”的诗咏。同时，蕨菜还是日常蔬食的一个重要品种。很多人喜欢蕨菜的香甜美味，经常使用于肴馔之中，精烹细饪，令人垂涎。齐己《寄山中叟》诗：“紫蕨红粳午爨香”，韦庄《西塞山作》诗：“爨动晓烟烹紫蕨”，李德裕《怀山居邀松阳子同作》诗：“饭思食紫蕨”，都表明了唐朝人对蕨菜的喜爱程度。在当时的饮食市场上，蕨菜作为蔬品之一还曾广为售卖。白居易《放鱼》诗“晓日提竹篮，家童买春蔬。青青芹蕨下，叠卧双白鱼。”说明城市居民到市场买菜，也曾选择野生蕨菜。

　　薇是豆科植物中的大巢菜，俗叫微菜，多生于山地，分布甚广。唐人入山采集，当作蔬菜食用。宋之问《嵩山夜还》诗云：“家住嵩山下，好采旧山薇。”储光羲《杂诗》云：“耕凿时未至，还山聊采薇。”由于采集者多，野生薇菜常被搜寻一空。白居易《续古诗》就说：“朝采山上薇，暮采山上薇。岁晏薇亦尽，饥来何所为。”薇菜味甘，微辛，其蛋白质含量高于同类野菜，因而为食者所识。常建《空灵山应田叟》诗：“白心可洗心，采薇可为肴”，就指出薇菜的食用价值。

　　藜，亦称灰菜，属藜科，南北均产，其嫩叶可食。《史记》中已有“藜藿之美”的说法。藿，指豆叶。藜藿经常并称，意为贫贱之菜，唐朝时仍为穷苦人家所食用。姚合《过张邯郸庄》云：“野饭具藜藿，永日亦不饥。”韩《卜隐》云：“世间华美无心问，藜藿充肠苎作衣。”就是中等人家，有时也会烹食藜菜。徐夤《偶吟》：“朝蒸藜藿暮烹葵”，就反映了藜在蔬食中的一席之地。藜性味甘平，宜于作羹。陆龟蒙《复友生书》就曾形容：“案上一杯藜羹，如五鼎七牢馈于左右。”如果在藜羹中加入适量米粒，便可烹制成藜羹糁。陆龟蒙《水国诗》中“归时只得藜羹糁”，便指这种较为粗劣的食物。

　　荠菜属十字花科植物，生于田野及庭园，春季鲜嫩时可食。孟郊作诗，有“食荠肠亦苦”之句。就是到了秋季，荠菜枯老，仍有人为之采食。卿云《秋日江居闲咏》诗即云：“检方医故疾，挑荠备中餐。”在唐代，中原地区已将荠菜列为采集型的蔬菜，市场上多有购销，而在南方某些地区还无人问津。《明皇杂录》这样记载：“高士力既谴于巫州，山谷多荠而人不食，力士感之，因为诗寄意：‘两京作斤卖，五溪无人采。夷夏虽有殊，气味终不改。”看来，荠菜的食用还以地域为限定。

　　蓼，指水蓼，一年生草木植物，生于湿地、水边或水中，我国南北均有分布。水蓼味辛辣，含有辛辣挥发油，人们一般将其作为调味食物。元稹《忆云之》诗有“食辛宁避蓼”的吟述。又《开元观闲居》诗亦云：“已得餐霞味，应嗤食蓼甜。”水蓼野生数量多，采集较易，所以陈藏器《本草拾遗》有“人为生菜”的说法。除水蓼外，同为蓼科的香蓼和青蓼也常被当作野菜食用。

　　苍耳，又名卷耳、耳、地葵、进贤菜，属菊科植物，生于荒地及路旁，比处可见。唐朝人多摘新鲜苍耳，用作蔬食。杜甫《驱竖子摘苍耳》诗云：“畦丁告劳苦，无以供日夕。蓬莠独不焦，野蔬暗泉石。卷耳况疗风，童儿且时摘。侵星驱之去，烂熳任远适。放筐停午际，洗剥相蒙。登床半生熟，下箸还小益。加点瓜薤间，依稀桔奴迹。”可以看出，唐时农民虽然辛苦耕作，但仍难获取充足的食物，不得不依靠野菜维系生涯。苍耳的味道并不可口，也要当作食物充饥。李白曾有“置酒摘苍耳”的诗咏，表达他对这种野菜的偏好。昝殷在《食医心鉴》一书中，介绍了若干种烹食苍耳的方法，其中“苍耳菜法”阐明：用苍耳嫩叶，煮三五沸，漉出，用“五味调和食之”；另如“苍耳叶羹”，乃是将苍耳叶“和米煮作羹”，然后“著盐椒葱白”，即可食用。唐人为了把野菜烹饪成可口的肴馔，可算是煞费苦心了。

　　马齿苋，又叫马齿菜，广生于田野、荒坡和农作物之间，夏秋时多可采集。唐人把马齿苋当作难得的佳蔬，有时在菜园中采到，即同园蔬一并收获。杜甫《园官送菜》诗便提到了马齿苋和苦苣两种野菜：“苦苣刺如针，马齿叶亦繁。青青嘉蔬色，埋没在中园。……乃知苦苣辈，倾夺蕙草根，又如马齿苋，气拥葵荏昏。”按苦苣，又名野苣、兔仔菜，可食，但不如马齿苋那样口感滑美。杜甫在诗序中说：“园官送菜把，本数日阙，矧苦苣、马齿掩乎嘉蔬。”意思是把苦苣和马齿苋也当作蔬菜，送交官府食用。就连唐朝宫廷有时也吃马齿菜，并以此作为体查民情的一种表示。《唐语林》卷一记载：“德宗初即位，深尚礼法，……召朝士食马齿羹，不设盐酪。”

　　当然，唐人采食的野菜品种很多，诸如睡菜、水韭、荇菜、苦菜、苦、堇菜、鼠耳、金盘草、回纥草、孟娘菜、四叶菜、蕺、蘩蒌等，都曾入案登盘。睡菜的采食见于《北户录》：“睡菜，五六月生于田塘中，叶类茨菰，根如藕梢，其性冷。土人采根，为腌菹食之。”鼠耳与牛唇的采食见之于皮日休《鲁望以躬搡野菜》诗：“杖春烟暖向阳，烦君为我致盈筐。探挑乍见牛唇液，细掐徐闻鼠耳香。紫甲采从泉脉畔，翠牙搜自石根傍。”另外，《酉阳杂俎》还记载了水底等野菜，甚为别致。总之，唐朝人尽最大可能去自然界寻觅野菜，借以弥补食物的欠缺，同时也为自己的日常食物开辟了更多的资源。

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