涮羊肉起源的三种传说--长沙美食网

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涮羊肉起源的三种传说

http://eat.csonline.com.cn 2007年11月21日16时29分星辰美食网

忽必烈、拔都、康熙、谁发明了涮羊肉？

忽必烈临阵起急涮羊肉

流行最广的说法，涮羊肉的起源与元世祖忽必烈有关。

相传，当年忽必烈统帅大军南下。一日，人困马乏饥肠辘辘，猛想起家乡的菜肴——清炖羊肉，立即吩咐部下杀羊烧火。正当伙夫宰羊割肉时，发现有敌情。厨师知道他正想吃羊肉，于是急中生智，飞刀切下十多片薄肉，放在沸水里搅拌几下，待肉色一变，马上捞入碗中，撒下细盐。忽必烈连吃几碗，翻身上马迎敌，获得胜利。

在筹办庆功酒宴时，忽必烈特别点了那道羊肉片。厨师选了绵羊嫩肉，切成薄片，再配上各种作料，将帅们吃后赞不绝口。厨师忙迎上前说：“此菜尚无名称，请赐名。”忽必烈笑答：“我看就叫‘涮羊肉’吧！”

　　成吉思汗孙子发明涮羊肉

也有人考证历史上涮羊肉的真正发明者是拔都。成吉思汗大儿子是术赤，拔都是术赤的儿子。

在西部汗国成立之时，拔都接替了术赤的权力，指挥蒙古铁骑蹂躏了欧洲。蒙古铁骑很强悍，但是吃粮食不抗饿，所以要大量吃肉。蒙古兵一般是大块煮羊肉吃。拔都发现大块煮肉慢，他要求蒙古兵把肉切薄了煮，然后蘸盐吃，这样的吃法很适合于行军打仗。

涮羊肉的铜锅，把锅子盖上的时候，看到的是一个完整的蒙古包，而锅子盖拿掉，看到的是蒙古骑兵的军盔。现在蒙古族姑娘的帽子，都是锅子的形状。据说《马可波罗游记》里写到，他在元大都皇宫里吃到了蒙古火锅，所以英文、法文对涮羊肉的翻译就是Mongolia；而日本和韩国朋友则把涮羊肉直接说成“吃忽必烈”、“吃成吉思汗”。

　　涮羊肉来自清宫“千叟宴”？

不过还有另外一种说法，认为涮羊肉又称“羊肉火锅”，始于清初。在18世纪，康熙、乾隆二帝举办几次规模宏大的“千叟宴”，其中就有羊肉火锅。后流传至市肆，由清真馆经营。《旧都百话》云：“羊肉锅子，为岁寒时最普通之美味，须于羊肉馆食之。此等吃法，乃北方游牧遗风加以研究进化，而成为特别风味。”

1854年，北京前门外正阳楼开业，是汉民馆出售涮羊肉的首创。其切出的肉是“片薄如纸，无一不完整”，使这一美味更加驰名。1914年，北京东来顺羊肉馆重金礼聘正阳楼的切肉师傅，专营涮羊肉。历经数十年，从羊肉的选择到切肉的技术，从调味品的配制到火锅的改良，都进行了研究，赢得了“涮肉何处好，东来顺最佳”的美誉。

　　涮羊肉的做法

配料：

　　羊肉…………1000克

　　酱豆腐…………1块

　　白菜头…………250克

　　腌韭菜花………50克

　　水发细粉丝……250克

　　芝麻酱…………100克

　　糖蒜…………100克

　　酱油…………50克

　　绍酒…………50克

　　辣椒油…………50克

　　卤虾油…………50克

　　葱花…………50克

　　香菜末…………50克

　　制作方法：

　　1、肉选净肉，放在－5度的冷库中冷藏12小时，待肉冻僵后，再行切片，切时将冰冻肉去掉边缘和肉头，片去云片（即附在肉上的一层薄膜）、脆骨和未剔净的筋膜，剩下最精致的肉核。然后横放在砧板上，盖上白布，右边露出1厘米宽的肉块，左手五指并拢向前平放，手掌压紧肉块和盖布，防止滑动。右手持刀，紧贴着左手拇指关节下刀，如拉锯似的来回拉切。当每刀切到肉的厚度一半时，将已切下的上半片，用刀刃一拨，把肉片折下，再继续到底，使每片肉都成对折的两层，也可切成卷如刨花形的肉片。每250克肉可切出长20厘米、宽5厘米的肉片40至50片，但冰冻肉只能切到30至40片，切出的肉要求长18厘米、宽4.5厘米、厚薄度不能超过0.3厘米。将肉整齐码入盘中，白菜头切块。

　　2、将各种调料分别盛在小碗中，端到席面，由食者根据个人喜好适量调配。

　　3、火锅内放入清水，也可加入适量清水和口蘑汤。用炭火烧开后，下入肉片，稍稍一涮，肉一变色马上夹出，蘸汁食用。

　　注意：

　　1、精选原料：羊选内蒙古集宁所产小尾巴绵羊，且要阉割过的公羊，这种羊没有膻味。1只羊以出肉20公斤左右最佳。其中能够涮食的肉只有7500克左右，是用羊的"上脑"、"小三岔"、"大三岔"、"蘑裆"、"黄瓜条"这五个部位。

　　2、传统冻肉方法：冰池内埋肉，一层肉、一层冰，中隔油布，层层埋好。冰冻两天左右，使肉内外冻实，其目的，清除膻味，改善肉质。

　　3、调料不少于七八种，如可用香油炸制的辣油，用香油高速稀的芝麻酱、卤虾油、酱豆腐、腌韭菜花和酱油等。辅料还可加酸菜、冻豆腐、热芝麻饼等。

　　4、食用时一次夹的肉片不宜过多，一般2至3片，过多就会产生生熟不均的现象，影响口味。

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