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火锅的历史演变
http://eat.csonline.com.cn  2007年11月14日09时47分   星辰美食网

  火锅源头在哪里

  

  “火锅”,什么叫火锅?其实只要是底部有火,上有锅子,就是火锅了。至于是使用什么样的锅子?何种燃料?自古以来的演变,可是多姿又多采。


  最早的火锅是用鼎煮的


  大约一万年前,我们的老祖宗发明了最早的容器─陶制的鼎,那可说是非常大的锅子,无论是三足或四足的鼎,在当时,只要是能吃的食物如肉类为主,通通都丢入鼎内,然后在底部生火,让食物煮熟,成为一大锅的食物,当时叫做“羹”,这就是最早的火锅了。


  不过仔细一想,当时并没有所谓的盐,也没有调味料,更没有沾酱,只是把一堆肉煮熟而已,会好吃吗?加上鼎太大,不能移动,只能固定陈列在一定的地方,不方便随时享用。于是,聪明的老祖宗,到西周时代,不但发明了铜与铁,且各种陶器品也改良制作成较为小型的器皿,适合一般人使用。


  铜与铁的产生,不仅形成了器皿的革命,同时也与近代的锅子非常相近,铜制的锅子与陶制的砂锅,到现在还是最实用、最普遍的火锅器皿,而大的鼎最后则延伸为权力的象征了。


  三国五熟釜鸳鸯锅始祖


  火锅的发展亦如同餐饮史的发展是渐进式的,完全是依据当时的器皿、社会的需求与原物料的发现引进,而加以变化的。就像“花椒”在没传进中国前,怎会有麻辣锅?“辣椒”在未进入中国时,又怎么会有辣的调味出现呢?


  三国时代,魏文帝所提到的“五熟釜”,就是分有几格的锅,可以同时煮各种不同的食物,和现今的“鸳鸯锅”,可说是有异曲同工之妙。


  到了南北朝,“铜鼎”是最普遍的器皿,也就是现今的火锅。演变至唐朝,火锅又称为“暖锅”。


  浪涌晴江雪,风翻晚照霞拨霞供是南宋火锅之美名


  在整个火锅历史的演变上,描写火锅最为传神的是南宋时代,在林洪所著的“山家清供”里所说的涮兔肉片。在当时,林洪前往武夷山拜访隐士止止师,止止师住在武夷山九曲中之第六曲仙掌峰,当林洪快到山峰时,下起大雪,一只野兔飞奔于山岩中,因刚下雪岩石很滑,滚下石来,被林洪抓到,林洪想烤来吃,而问止止师会不会烧兔肉,止止师回答他说,我在山中吃兔子是这样的,在桌上放个生炭的小火炉,炉上架个汤锅,把兔肉切成薄片,用酒、酱、椒、桂做成调味汁,等汤开了夹著着片在汤中涮熟,沾着调味料吃。

 

  利用这样涮熟之吃法,林洪吃了觉得如此的吃法甚为鲜美,且能在大雪纷飞之寒冬中,与三五好友围聚一堂谈笑风生,随性取食,非常愉快,因而为这样一种吃法取了个“拨霞供”的美名,取当时“浪涌晴江雪,风翻晚照霞”的美丽光景。随后发展到今天,无论是各种肉类或蔬食,皆可如此涮食。


  器皿变化少白铁锅普遍


  从元、明、清到现今,火锅器皿上的变化并不大,新的容器除了锅宝采用耐高温透明玻璃,煮的时候可见食物的翻腾,吃的时候较不会有漏网之鱼外,铜锅、铁锅、砂锅等锅具,只是在制作上更为精致,多已使用几千年以上,而现用的最普遍的也最广泛的锅具为“不锈钢锅”,也就是俗称的“白铁锅”。


  燃料变化一日千里调味秘方独门保密


  虽然火锅器皿的变化不大,但是在燃料使用的进步却是一日千里,从柴火到木炭,从电炉、酒精到瓦斯、电磁炉,以木炭的使用历史最久,也最有风味,但也是最污染空气的一种方式。电磁炉虽然最干净也最方便,但风味较差,瓦斯最好控制火候的大小,方便、好用,不过却也较危险。


  相对于燃料上的多变化,在调味沾料的演变却趋于保守、保密。涮羊肉的沾料千年不变,汕头沙头酱以独门配方为傲,其他豆腐乳、豆瓣酱也都是以老牌子为号召。另外,一些基本搭配的沾料还有酱油、葱、蒜、蛋、麻油、辣椒等等,样式不少,如何同中求异,都赖各家的独门调配。


  三大火锅类别吃法原始自然


  一般而言,火锅基本上只有三大类别,第一种汤为淡味,而以涮生片为主,沾料占重要角色,涮羊肉及广式打边炉最具代表,第二种是锅内的料已熟,如砂锅鱼头、羊肉炉等,炉火只是做为保温作用,并用来烫青菜。第三种是锅内的料全都熟透了,连青菜也无需再穿烫,炉火完全是用来保温的,和大锅菜无二样,如佛跳墙、复兴锅等大锅菜的方式。


  又是火锅上市的季节,约三五好友或一家团聚,想吃什么就买什么,少吃些肉,多备些蔬菜、鱼类,沾料不要调的太咸,一不小心盐份就过量了,对心脏不好。

  

  吃火锅是最原始的做法,想吃什么就放什么,多自在,也最能保鲜,没有油腻,为现代的健康吃法,怎么样,来一锅吧!

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