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重阳花糕的传说和制作
http://eat.csonline.com.cn  2007年10月17日09时45分   星辰美食网

  重阳的来历是根据我国五经之一的《易经》,把“九”定为阳数,农历九月九日,月、日都是阳数,两“九”相重,故称重阳。又因“九”在个位数中是最大的数字,古人以“九”为最高,如老北京形容前门楼子最高“九丈九”,李白诗“疑是银河落九天”。古人认为“九”是象征吉祥长久的“至数”,两九相重,即是至数相遇,“至而又至”,又是两阳相叠、“阳上加阳”,这样,就被认为这一天是非同一般难得相遇的吉日良辰,于是就把这一天定为“重阳节”。


  据史书记载,重阳节吃糕早在汉代《西京杂记》就有记载:“九月九日,佩茱萸、食蓬饵、饮菊花酒、食人长寿。”食蓬饵就是吃蓬糕。至于在这一天吃蓬糕的原因还有一段传说:“在古代一座高山下住着一户勤劳善良又善于做善事帮助人的农民,凭着辛勤劳动过着自给自足的生活。有一天,这家主人收工回来,天色已晚,路上遇到一位投宿的老者,他二话没说,就把老者让到自己家好吃好喝好招待。第二天老者临走时,对这位主人说:“九月九日你家中要有灾,必须往高处搬家,越高越好,还要搬到草木稀少的地方,这样可以免灾。善良的农民听了这位老者的话,就搬到山上居住了。九月九日这一天,善良的农民从山上往下一看,果然见自己原来住的房子着火了,而且火势向山上蔓延,但因农民听了老者的话,选择了草木稀少的地方,所以火势没烧上来。从此登山避灾的事就传开了。但年年搬家,实非易事,况且有的地方尽是平原,无山可登。于是有聪明人想出了吃糕,代替登高搬家的办法。因“糕”与“高”谐音,从此,重阳吃糕可以避灾的习俗就传下来了。

 

     重阳糕又称花糕、菊糕、五色糕,制无定法,较为随意,有“糙花糕”、“细花糕”和“金钱花糕”。

     粘些香菜叶以为标志,中间夹上青果、小枣、核桃仁之类的糙干果;细花糕 有3层、2层不等,每层中间都夹有较细的蜜饯干果,如苹果脯、桃脯、杏 脯、乌枣之类;金钱花糕与细花糕基本同样,但个儿较小,如同“金钱”一 般,多是上层府第贵族的食品。

     据说,早年不家用发面饼夹上枣,栗诸果的, 或以江米、黄米面蒸成粘糕饼,似“上金”、“下银”的花糕。

     有诗描述重阳糕的制作:

     蔡云:

     篝火鸣机夜作忙,

     织工一饮登高酒,

     依然风雨古重阳,

     蒸出枣糕满店香。

     九月九日天明时,以片糕搭儿女头额,口中念念有词,祝愿子女百事俱高,乃古人九月作糕的本意。讲究的重阳糕要作成九层,像座宝塔,上面还作成两只小羊,以符合重阳(羊)之义。有的还在重阳糕上插一小红纸旗,并点蜡烛灯。这大概是用“点灯”、“吃糕”代替“登高”的意思,用小红纸旗代替茱萸。当今的重阳糕,仍无固定品种,各地在重阳节吃的松软糕类都称之为重阳糕。

     重阳糕不仅自家食用,还馈送亲友,称“送糕”;又请出嫁女儿回家食糕,称“迎宁”。

     今年的重阳节,我们不妨自己来亲手做重阳糕,增添节日的乐趣。方法如下:

     原料:主科:上白面粉:千克。

     配料:红、绿丝各50克,糯米酒汁200克。

     调料:洗沙300克,白糖500克,熟猪油200克。

     制法:

    (1)面粉入盆,加温水,兑入甜酒汁,抄匀拌和,使其发酵,至出现蜂窝状时,加白糖(200克),用筷子搅匀。

    (2)洗沙用热水搅稀。白糖(300克)用热水化开。红绿丝切成粒。

    (3)在蒸笼底部抹油,用1/3面糊摊开笼底刷上一层糖水、洗沙泥;再将V3的面糊摊上,再刷一层糖水、洗沙泥;再将剩余的面摊上加盖,上火蒸熟后,面上刷上糖水,撒上红、绿丝,稍晾凉切成棱形块即成。

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