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没有招牌没有广告私房菜馆在长沙悄然兴起

http://eat.csonline.com.cn 2007年09月17日10时57分星辰美食网

　　普通民宅里，没有招牌、没有广告，甚至没有专门的服务员，老板就是跑堂的或还身兼大师傅，炒出的菜你在那些大酒店里不一定吃得到……这就是近年来在北京、上海、广州等大城市开始悄然流行的私房菜馆。而“好吃”的长沙人，亦很快“引进”了这一模式，无论是繁华的五一商住圈，还是相对幽静的岳麓高校区，均悄然出现了以各种名义存在的私房菜馆。

　　私房菜馆吃饭要预订

　　昨日中午，通过一位“好吃网友”的介绍，记者来到王府井商住楼，以一位慕名而来的食客身份敲开一户普通住宅的门，走进里面发现“别有洞天”：三室两厅的房子，全被老板王新（化名）改成了一个小型餐馆，小卧室自然是小包箱，放了一张餐桌；而主卧室则是大包箱，放了两张餐桌……总共八张餐桌，经他安排，有条不紊，一点不显拥挤。

　　听说记者没有预订，王新一个劲表示抱歉：“八张桌子都订出去了，要吃可能要等到两三个小时以后了。”原来，提前电话预定，是长沙私房菜馆的通用做法：顾客可以先提出自己想吃的菜谱，由老板根据客人的要求购置原材料再进行加工，一方面可以尽量满足顾客的口味；同时亦可以保证原料新鲜，避免浪费。

　　顾客自己可掌勺

　　“我们的顾客主要是周围公司、商店的经理老板。”王新向记者介绍，这些人“属于见多识广一群，吃腻了大餐馆大酒店，看中了私房菜馆的家庭风味及干净卫生。”因而在他的店子里，虽然请有一名厨师和一个伙计，但顾客如果有需要，可以由菜馆配好菜顾客自己进去掌勺。

　　记者在建湘路国贸大厦旁边一商住楼的私房家菜馆进行采访时，六张餐桌上坐的亦多是当地证券公司、银行的工作人员。记者看了一下菜单，一份“名声口味鸡”定价58元，名声油炸大虾、牛三样、蒜苗脆肚、水煮田鸡等，价格均在38元左右，并不比餐馆便宜。“我们的菜确实不是很便宜，但绝对保证货真价实。”当记者故意嫌餐馆价格太贵时，他说，“名声口味鸡”专门委托乡下亲戚收购来正宗乡里土鸡，成本上去了，价格自然贵了。一位中午长期在文老板私房菜馆吃饭的物流公司老板介绍，由于在这里能吃到一些外面酒店吃不到的特色菜，加之环境闹中取静，现在公司一般的客人宴请他都改到这里进行了。

　　同行抱怨造成不公平竞争

　　私房菜馆的经营方式很特殊：大多设在商住楼的民宅里，没有大招牌，不做广告宣传，信息完全靠食客们口头传播（最近也有个别家私房菜馆借助QQ或博客向外推介的），因此特别注重满足不同顾客的口味需求。“没有回头客我们就会玩不下去。”王府井商住楼私房菜馆的老板王新自嘲地说。

　　像王新他们这种私房菜馆长沙有多少？因为他们没有在工商部门注册登记，谁也说不准。只是圈内人士知道，车站北路的梦泽园、王府花园，芙蓉路的华菱大厦，湘江路的欧陆经典，河西的沁园小区……都可以找到各有特色的私房菜馆，由于其口味有特点，选料实在，环境闹中取静，正受到越来越多星城食客们的青睐。

　　“这对我们这些同行太不公平了。”湘江美食酒楼的老板陈镜对此有些愤愤不平，他认为这些设在民宅里的私房菜馆由于省下了昂贵的房租以及工商、卫生、食品、消防、税务等诸多费用，经营成本很低，利润空间远远高于酒楼，“任其发展下去肯定会影响到我们这些守法经营者的生意。”

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