美食情感:甜蜜 幸福的味道 --长沙美食网
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美食情感:甜蜜 幸福的味道
http://eat.csonline.com.cn  2008年04月24日17时19分   星辰美食网

  相对于西方人的饮食,中国食物总体来说是“咸”的文化。像榨菜那样的大咸菜,老外是吃不习惯的。电影《西线无战事》里,一个德国士兵在战斗之后饱餐了一顿,自言自语道:“现在,要是有点甜品就好了。”看到这一幕我禁不住笑起来,饭后的“disert”,甜品。好比北方人饺子要吃大蒜,没有这一项,这顿饭就是残缺的,在战场上奢望甜品恰好展现了这一点。

  中国人也不是不善于吃甜,但是绝没有那么甜得有爆炸性,淮扬菜尚甜,但也不会甜的那么纯粹,必有其他的味道中和一下。在广州常吃的菠萝咕噜肉,甜中带酸,有人烹调时还喜欢带一点辣,其目的终究是要下饭的。因此,中国的甜食多是作为零食点心,作为吃的点缀。

  上高中的时候,食堂的饭菜可以用凄惨来形容,每顿饭两角钱的标准,清汤白菜,大煮萝卜,这样吃上一段时间,按照水浒的评价叫做:嘴里淡出鸟来了。大家都盼望每周四的晚饭,因为那个时候可以吃到“糖三角”。说起来会被现在的年轻人笑话,所谓“糖三角”,其实就是用面把粗红糖裹起来,捏制成三角的形状,是一种以糖为馅的包子,与现在广州吃到的甜包比较,“糖三角”是真正用来解馋的。穷学生们上了一天课之后,饥肠辘辘,赶到窗口排队,每人限量买三个热乎乎的“糖三角”,打一饭盒玉米粥,回宿舍大吃。咬第一口是最享受的,舍不得大口咬,把面用筷子挑开一点,让融化的糖汁一点一点渗透舌尖,又糯又浓的甜要经过反复回味才舍得下咽。我的同学小沈在语文课上闹过一次笑话,老师问:“请大家说出什么是幸福。”小沈大声说:“幸福就是一口气吃两个糖三角!”大家哄堂大笑。这份吃甜的记忆今天想来是清苦的,但却是珍贵的。当我在面对广州街头遍布甜品店时,双皮奶、红豆冰这些花样百出的甜品,更像是奢侈品。

  对于现在的孩子们来说,仅有“甜”是不够的。我的女儿是极喜欢吃甜的,每每上街,都会流连一番甜品店,或者到糕点铺子里,给我推荐提拉米苏之类的东西,在家就抱着糖果盒子看漫画。吃够了甜食,再跟同学在QQ上探讨怎样不发胖的学问。我所惊奇的是她们在吃形形色色甜食的时候,带有一种对精致的追逐,一种小巧的甜品在她们眼睛里不仅仅是甜的,可以吃的,而且是可爱的,可以玩味的,日本人称之为“kawaii”心态。我对她们这一代人的习惯没有排斥心理,因为一代人有一代人的精彩,我丝毫不担心她们的所谓的社会责任。就在去年广州春运期间,她们几个十几岁的孩子竟然相约去给车站的警察送食物。我的女儿用火龙果肉加上巧克力,做成一个“心”的形状,她说要让辛苦的警察能感受到甜的味道。新一代人居然把甜食的时尚与公益心理这样结合起来了。

  舌甘为甜,甜是一种美妙的味道,因此也寄托了人们太多的愿望。比如,人们把美好的爱情称为甜蜜的。老外喜欢管亲爱的人叫蜜糖,无一不是美丽的称谓。因此,无论当年的生活多清苦,但吃甜的记忆总是美好动人的。

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